Wednesday, 13 July 2011

A Trip Part three

Over The Rockies
From Burlington, the next major town is Denver, around 150 miles further on. The scenery started to change a little as we approached Denver and by the time we were driving towards this city, we could see the mountains ahead of us.
The Rocky Mountains ahead
Click on any picture to enlarge 
Driving through Denver towards the mountains
The Denver cityscape
From Denver we started to climb and climb and soon we were several thousand feet above sea level. We started to see snow on the slopes around us and road signs set at intervals giving the altitude showed we were still climbing steadily.
Snow on the ground still in June


Several tunnels have been bored through the mountains here to enable the road builders to keep the road as level as possible and the first one we encountered was the Eisenhower Memorial Tunnel.
The entrance to the Eisenhower Memorial Tunnel
Whilst the road occasionally went downhill from time to time, there were more climbs than drops, so we continued to climb and as we were approaching ten thousand feet, a pack of Doritos suddenly burst and we found that all of our other crisp packets (or chips according to Americans) were like fat balloons as the air outside had thinned.
A Lays pack almost at bursting point
People in the know, apparently put a pin hole in their packs before driving over mountains. We stopped at a place called Idaho Springs to stretch our legs and eat lunch, including the conveniently self-opening Doritos.
The highest point on this stretch of the I-70 is 10,663 feet just before Vail, a ski resort.
The highest point
We stopped there for a quick look around and a coffee. In the town centre, there were several statues of recognisable individuals dotted about in various places, some sitting on chairs.
This gentleman I would Theorise is Relatively comfortable
A river runs through Vail

As we drove on from Vail, the road follows the Colorado River and is in the canyon eaten out by this river.
Glenwood Canyon and the Colorado River 

On this stretch of the I-70, it is mostly downhill for a long long way and driving down mountain roads is not quite so relaxing for TS especially when a large slow truck decided to join our lane when we had nowhere to go. The brakes worked admirably considering the big heavy car we were in was fully laden with four adults, a child and a heap of luggage.
The scenery was quite impressive for someone brought up in the Home Counties, where a hill was considered big if it was almost 200 feet high.
Spectacular views
 The next town we passed was Grand Junction, about 160 miles from Veil and almost thirty to the state line.
Lower down the view is still impressive
Soon we crossed into Utah and passed through more amazing country heading for our next night’s stop at Moab.

Moab is in some spectacular country and is a big tourist attraction for hikers, canoeists and trail enthusiasts. A lot of the time you are out in this kind of country you will see people towing a trailer with up to four Quad Bikes or ATV buggies on the back. These are used to follow trails right out into the wilderness and have a very big following as a recreational sport.



Moab is about thirty miles south of the I-70, on route 191 and the reason we intended to stop at Moab was to visit the Arches National Park, which is nearby. There are other areas of natural beauty close by, with a vast area along the Colorado River known as Canyonlands National Park and two national forest and mountainous areas stretching over several hundred if not thousands of square miles.
The La Sal Mountains from the I-70

The La Sal Mountains form a backdrop to the red hills on  route 191

If you look closely, about a third of the way up and a quarter of the way in from the left, you can see three cars, which give you an idea of the scale of this ridge.

Approaching Moab you start to see the characteristic rock formations that have made the Arches.
A proto-arch is forming at the foot of this rock formation
Having left Burlington around 8:30AM, we arrived at Moab around 6:30PM, almost nine hours of driving for TS and the longest stretch of the trip. We spent the night in a much nicer hotel with no smells or dirt and even used the swimming pool.

Saturday, 9 July 2011

A Trip part two - still more pictures

Kansas City is the nearest major airport to TBH’s son’s family home. Whilst it is named Kansas City, it straddles the state line between Missouri and Kansas, with more of it in Missouri than in Kansas. It is quite a large city and is known locally as the City of Fountains and it does have a lot of water features in many of the public areas.
One of the many fountains in KC
Click to enlarge all pictures
 Amongst the seven or so museums in KC, one of these is the USA’s National World War One Museum. This records the USA’s involvement in that war and also has a section which covers the other nations allied in that conflict. It was interesting to find that there was a record of TBH’s grandfather’s regiment and from this she was able to discover how he died, something she had not known fully before. Because her family come from Gloucestershire in England, he served in the Glosters a British regiment that had landed at the port of Basra in what was then Mesopotamia, now Iraq. He was captured by the Turks somewhere near the Tigris and it seems he died from dysentery whilst still in captivity and was buried not far from Baghdad.


The WWI museum entrance and tower

Part of KC, with the railway station in the foreground.
This view was taken from the top of the WWI museum tower
Kansas City may well be getting more water than they want about now, because this year the spring melt was prolonged and melt water is still moving downstream in both the Kansas and the Missouri Rivers, which join at Kansas City. These rivers are so long, it takes months for water to actually flow down to these states from their sources in the Rockies and whilst we were there, there were continuous flood warnings as the high water peak moved downstream towards us. Temporary levies have been built and existing ones extended to hold back the expected rise in water level, whilst some roads had already been closed due to the rising water. This is slightly ironic because there had been much less rain than normal this spring in Kansas and grass and plants are suffering.

The family live about an hour’s drive west of Kansas City and we stayed in their home for the next week or so. The plan was for us to do a bit of Grandson sitting, whilst TBH’s son (TS) and daughter in law (TDIL) were still at work, but The Grandson (TG) had been doing a lot of competitive swimming and all the heats were that first week. These were being held in Topeka, a town further west and about 40 minutes or so drive from the family home.
Dawn breaks over Kansas

 Most of the events that TG was entered into were taking place early, beginning at 8AM, so this required that we all got up before six AM prepared a midday snack, piled into the car and sped off to Topeka where we set up deck chairs and blankets around the pool along with the hundred or so other families competing and sat around watching and waiting for the various events.

The pool at Topeka used for 'The Beach Bash' as this event was referred to.
It was quite warm with temperatures in the low 90s for most of the morning, reaching the mid to high 90s by the end of the morning, when we then returned to the family home and the comfort of the air conditioning found in practically every home in that part of the world.
We managed to find some shade by the pool. 

TG did well in most of the events he needed to qualify in and got the set of official times he needed for each event. He is quite tall for his age and was often competing against children three years older than himself, so he did not come first in many heats but held his own for most of them, often bettering his own previous times. His father and I filmed his progress so that he could look at what he was doing and like any competitive sportsman was able to see where he could improve his technique.

Once these heats were over, we were all able to sleep in until a more normal time to get up. Although not having to go to Topeka every day, his father continued to take him to the local pool for some organised practice on his way to work and his mother collected him before starting to her work each morning and when he was returned home, we then got on with the proper Grandson sitting.

The family own four cats, two rather elderly females, Hailey and Emma and two much younger males, Tom and Jerry. Hailey and Emma are both getting on in years and were originally rescue kittens from a feral mother. They were always skittish and uncertain of visitors to their house, but over the years we have visited, they have become used to us and soon settle down and regularly come to greet us in hopes of some attention, often vocalising this request.

What!
Hailey in her usual dozing spot


The two boys, Tom and Jerry are TG’s cats and they chose him when his mum and dad took him to find him a cat at the rescue centre. Properly known as Sir Thomas Mousebane and Sir Jerrold Kibblebane, who is occasionally known as Sir Eatalot, they are much more forthcoming and were all over us on day one. Jerry is slightly aloof but will sit beside you, rarely on you, whilst Tom demands attention frequently, also very vocally, and climbs on your lap or lays down on his back beside you hoping for a tummy rub.

Tummy rub?  Please, pretty please

They play together and sleep in a heap, but are a bit too rough for the older cats who tend to keep away from them. All four will occasionally have a mad moment and when sleeping beneath their living room, (our bedroom was in the basement) at four AM, they are known as Thunder paws.

A sleep heap

Caught in the act!

In much of the USA and in particular, Kansas, weather is quite an important factor and most houses are equipped with a basement in which to shelter when things get rough. You can buy a weather radio that has the sole purpose of putting out bulletins and warnings if storms are approaching.
This is necessary for two reasons, firstly, thunderstorms are likely to be severe and apart from the problem of lightning strikes, they can cause massive hailstones up to grapefruit size, which will damage cars and houses and can be dangerous if you have no shelter. Powerful storms can also cause sudden micro bursts, a sudden short lived wind which can be devastating in a small area. Secondly tornadoes can form and where these touch down, the devastation can be immense. Joplin was virtually destroyed only a few weeks before we arrived in the USA, so the weather radar is monitored continuously and warnings issued where the clouds are forming most densely. On our previous visit, in 2009, there had been some grapefruit sized hail only a few miles away. A microburst had done some damage in KC and a couple of tornadoes touched down briefly but fortunately did no damage. A few thunderstorms passed through whilst we were there this time but they were minor events and no dangerous weather arrived this trip.

After a week or so of TG sitting, we started to prepare for the road trip. This required booking hotels at all the places we planned to stay overnight and hiring a larger car that would comfortably take all our luggage and seat us all as well. The rental company had a number of suitable vehicles and we were supplied with a large very new Chrysler Town and Country with tons of features ideal for the trip. A common feature on many people carriers are sliding doors for the passenger doors. On this model, not only were they sliding doors, but they were electric, so you simply pressed a button, or the key fob and they opened and closed by themselves. The rear door also opened electrically. There was a ton of room and we were able to travel in style.
We set off heading west along the I-70 interstate, through the lush green fields of Kansas. Kansas has very bad press, starting with the Wizard of Oz, where L Frank Baum describes the prairie as flat and grey. Much of Kansas is flat and maybe, late in the summer, rather arid out on the prairie, but there is much that is green and hilly and not too different from England in other parts of that state. The nearby states of Illinois, Missouri and Colorado all have large areas that are flat and uninteresting, but these are never mentioned in the context that Kansas receives.
Stereotypical West Kansas view
Another part of Kansas
Kansas has its places of interest too. On the way along the I-70, interstate which passes over miles of corn fields (maize), there is a really ‘exciting’ attraction that claims to have the ‘Largest Prairie Dog in the World’ on display.
An intriguing sign 

Wow! We had to stop and see this world wonder… well maybe not, it is a rather crude concrete model prairie dog behind a screen, so that you could not see it properly from the road without paying the necessary fee. Who says Kansas has nothing for the tourist!
The thing left of centre that looks like a skittle is a baby giant prairie dog whilst its gigantic mother is  just visible under the screen
However, despite this draw, we did not actually break our journey to admire the ‘Largest Prairie Dog in the World’ but continued past this irresistible attraction without stopping.
Much more interesting than a homemade prairie dog statue, was a herd of buffalo grazing in a pen nearby.
Buffalo in front of the Giant Prairie dog
We passed by several towns along the way, some I have heard of and many I had not. A few miles west of Topeka, we passed a town called Manhattan, not to be confused with the more famous district of New York and then on to Abilene, which may be known to us wrinklies from the song by George Hamilton IV who got it into the charts in the 1960s. Also the town where Wild Bill Hickok was sheriff for a rather short term of office, having been sacked after accidentally shooting his deputy.

Next is Salina, a crossroads on I-70 and I-135, which heads south to Wichita. For those strangers to the USA, all even numbered highways head East West, whilst all odd numbered highways head North South, so it is easy to understand which road to use to head in a particular direction.
Later in the day we passed a place with the odd name of Mingo and then Colby. Colby boasts a Prairie Museum which covers the history of the area. The land had been rising steadily and Colby is over 3000 feet above sea level so it is a touch cooler than East Kansas and it was a harsh place for the early settlers there, the story of which is displayed in the museum.

At the state line, we left Kansas and entered Colorado with little obvious change in the scenery, where we could all say with complete accuracy; ‘Toto, I don’t think we are in Kansas anymore.’ and we continued west to Burlington where our first overnight stop had been planned. A little way before the state line, we went from Central Time to Mountain Time and had to put our watches back an hour.
TS had done all the driving and excluding stops had been almost eight hours at the wheel. He is indefatigable and seems capable of driving forever and claims to enjoy it. American roads are less crowded than ours so there is not so much stress, however, I would not have felt too fresh after such a long drive.
The hotel we had booked was not exactly four stars, it had had some favourable comments and recommendations on the web pages, but seemed to have either been taken over by some new management and had gone downhill, or been stayed in by people whose standards were considerably lower than ours. It did not seem to have been cleaned properly and the first room we were shown, smelt strongly of stale smoke. We rejected that one and were given another which was still rather dirty but did not smell. Although TBH did not recognise it, but having moved in different circles in my past, I had recognised the smell and it was not tobacco. I would like to point out, that whilst I knew the smell from previous encounters of that substance, in the words of President Bill Clinton, ‘I didn't inhale’.
A broken and dirty air con unit
It was only for the one night, and we survived without catching anything nasty and went on for the next leg of the journey.

Monday, 4 July 2011

A Trip Part one - mostly in pictures

The Better Half (TBH) and I have just returned from a short trip, during which we have managed just over ten thousand miles of travel.
We went to Canada first where we stayed with a cousin of mine (CK) and then we went on to Kansas where TBH’s son and family live. Kansas is not the world’s most likely tourist centre and whilst it has certain attractions, more about those later, this summer we were intending to travel on from there to see certain of the many other places of interest the USA has to offer.

But first: Toronto
Toronto is one of Canada’s major cities, right on Lake Ontario it has a wide range of attractions for tourists and not too far away is Niagara Falls.
Looking across the Horseshoe falls towards the USA

 The most prominent attraction is almost certainly the CN Tower, which is visible from a long way off in most directions.
The CN Tower on the left, visible from approximately twenty miles across the lake.
All of the smallest buildings in Toronto lie below the horizon
The tower is one of the many erstwhile ‘World’s tallest’ structures, built in 1976 and impressively, it was THE tallest for 35 years, but like many of its fellow towers or buildings it has been overtaken by more recent taller structures, but still retains the record for the Western hemisphere.

The tallest structure in the Western hemisphere - for now
 It is nonetheless very impressive and worth a visit unless you cannot stand heights. In the main pod, the first level, there is the ubiquitous glass floor which is quite daunting for some to stand on since you are apparently unsupported over an frighteningly long drop. For an extra fee you can also go outside and hang on a rope, under supervision, and hang over the 1,080 foot plus drop. Not something I want to do personally, even if they paid me.

Looking down through the glass floor at the 1000 foot plus drop from a safe place.
 The views are spectacular and you can see almost the whole of Toronto and much of the surrounding area from the different viewing platforms.
The view of the Water Front from the Tower
A closer look at the three masted boat visible from the tower

A seaplane flying by the Water Front
Another of the vessels moored on the Water Front
A tour bus is available around town with a boat trip around the water front included in the ticket price. The bus service allows you to hop on and off at any point around the tour allowing you to stop of and visit the many points of interest within the city. For this trip we did not have enough time to visit many places so we did not use the bus, or visit the tower. Our trip was more of a social visit and we had a whole pile of family photos to look at that I had brought over. This required some considerable time to sort through and attempt to identify some of our ancestors, which absorbed us for a while but we did get out and had a look around Toronto and the lake shore.
There was a lot of wildlife to spot and I was able to get some nice pictures of birds and animals that you do not come across in England.

This chap was scrounging food from the tourist's picnics 


A rather shy chipmunk 

A Cardinal

Robins are larger over here than in the UK

A very young squirrel


An adult Black Squirrel
Like most of the North American continent, there were a large number of quite ordinary sparrows. It is interesting to see them adapted to areas where much greater extremes of temperature take place than their native European countries, where they are in decline in some places.



A Red Wing blackbird

Toronto had had a lot of rain that spring, and I was interested to see that Lake Ontario, a vast body of water, 7,340 square miles in area was so full it had risen up about six inches over a path that would normally have been dry. This represents approximately sixty two and a half million gallons of extra water in the lake.


The lake near The Bluffs
My cousin CK  has lived in Toronto on and off for some years and whilst able to show us some really nice walks, she had never explored the AGO, the Art Gallery of Ontario, so was quite happy to have a look around there when I suggested it. I had heard a lot about the artists known as the Group of Seven, (follow the link to see their work) who had painted around the early part of the 20th century and I was keen to see more of their work, particularly the originals, which I knew were in the AGO.
They were everything I expected and CK was impressed with her countrymen’s work, declaring that she was inspired by them to continue with her own painting, something she had recently been encouraged to take up by her sister, who is quite a talented artist and judging by CK's recent work, this talent seems to run in the family.

Just behind the AGO is a very strange structure, which houses a college of Art and Design
 We had a relaxing time, looking at the family photos and going for walks along some beautiful almost untamed stretches of lake shore and some more formal gardens around the lake.

Someone fishing by the lake

Under a footbridge, hundreds of Swallows had made their nests and were busy feeding their, almost fully grown, young.

This female Redwing was not pleased to see us so near her nest and made  a strong demand that we go away

It seems that they have a problem with geese poop.  This is not just a problem in Canada, Canada Geese are found in large flocks all around the UK and they cause a similar problem.

We saw a pair of Turkey Vultures flying around what seemed to be their nest site

A wind turbine demonstrating the snag with this kind of renewable energy.  A dead calm.
After a few seemingly short days, our visit was over and we then flew on down to Kansas City.
The small intercity Jazz aircraft that links Toronto with Kansas City