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In our household it is not all beer and skittles as the
saying goes, but sometimes it may seem to be. Because The Granddaughter (TG) and her family live a considerable distance away and we cannot visit very often, whenever she is on holiday from school we will try to spend some
time with her mum and dad and her. After our previous holiday with the US contingent
of our family in Kent and our trip to Devon, both in June, they had some more
time off and wanted to come down to stay with us for a couple of weeks in
August. They also decided that since
they were coming down south and they would be passing close to Ironbridge near
Telford, they wanted to break their journey and take TG to the Victorian museum
there. It was then suggested that we came up and join them there and this
evolved into a long weekend and so we drove up to Telford. TG’s parents had already booked a place at a
hotel a little way down the Severn from Ironbridge before suggesting we came
too. By the time it was agreed, their
hotel was full, so we found another hotel and stayed in a nice little private
hotel right in the middle of Ironbridge itself.
The town of Ironbridge has got its name from the old iron bridge
which spans the river Severn, which is the first ever all metal bridge to be
erected in the world. It was erected in
1779 and is still in good use, although motorised traffic is no longer allowed on
it. Before it was built, the only way
across the Severn at that point was by ferry, or you had to travel many tens of
miles around by road. Naturally the new
bridge proved an immediate success and paid for itself in short order as a toll
bridge and it is now a world heritage site.
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Unfortunately this noticeboard showing the tolls has been allowed to fade, so it is hard to see many of the prices. It seems padestrains had to pay one half penny. This musty have been quite expensive for many people of the time. |
Nowadays there is a newer bridge for modern road traffic, a mile or so further down the river.
Because of its connections with the early industrial
revolution in Britain, there are a number of museums and tourist areas around
the town and just outside is the Blists Hill Victorian Museum.
This is arranged as a town loosely Victorian in period, with
many of the original structures found on the site along with rebuilt properties
transported brick by brick there when their original sites were
re-developed. There are several places
like this in the UK and they are very popular.
They make an otherwise redundant industrial site, which would become a
blot on the landscape as it falls into decay, into a working, and most
importantly, money making concern.
We had previously visited one like this further east, but still in the West Midlands to see, follow this
link a couple of years ago
and you may also have seen Morning AJ’s reference to Blists Hill if you follow
her blog. To see follow this
link.
Ironbridge is very picturesque being situated on the side of
the river Severn in a narrow gorge cut out by the river.
The town spreads along the river and was limited in width by the steep gorge and lack of
road transport across the river until the Iron Bridge was built. Now there are
houses and streets both sides of the river, but sill limited in sideways growth
by the sides of the gorge.
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Ironbridge from across the river |
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There people from the Shropshire Wildlife Trust were rowing a currach, a long coracle-type boat made in the centuries-old traditional way of hazel, willow, ash and cowhide |
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This little dog is taking no chances on the water |
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Seeing all the cameras this little robin turned up to get in on the photo shoot |
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He was very tame and posed nicely for a long time |
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Although a high span, the river flows fast and is ideal for
playing high altitude Pooh sticks. Because
of the height, the wind needs to be taken into account for professional players
it represents a serious challenge.
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We spent the first day walking around the town and the local
area and then the second day we went to the Blist Hill museum.
In the Blists Hill Victorian Town museum, we were greeted by
the sight of Sherlock Holmes himself walking along the street and later we encountered
Dr Watson and Mrs Hudson their housekeeper.
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The man himself |
The three of them performed a cameo during the morning, where they acted
out a short scenario where Mrs Hudson and Dr Watson had hidden Holms’ violin as
an act of self-defence, since his playing apparently leaves something to be
desired.
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At one point Holmes suspects, from their behaivour, that Watson and Mrs Hudson are having an affair, much to their obvious horror |
He of course solved the case and came to the totally
incorrect conclusion that a member of the audience must have stolen it, using
his famous observational techniques.
They were very funny and very accomplished actors and of
course actress. Later in the day, I encountered them in one of the Blists Hill
town’s houses taking tea and scones after having entertained a number of people
with a series of Victorian music hall tunes on an old upright piano in one of
the houses.
I am quite a fan of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, and a lot of my
childhood reading was short stories from his Sherlock Holmes series. I own a number of first printings
of his stories, which were printed in the Strand Magazine around the
1890s. I have a collection of bound
sets of Strand magazines from this period, unfortunately none of the first
editions of the book publications that followed. Those are infinitely more valuable for some
reason, even though they were printed later than the serialised or short
stories printed in the magazines.
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Holmes and Watson talking to Mrs Hudson before departing |
In these earliest publications of his stories, Sherlock
Holmes is illustrated a number of times and for most of the time he wears
either a silk top hat, a bowler hat or a boater, depending on where he is
going. I have only ever found one illustration of him wearing a deerstalker hat which has now become his trademark. As a well rounded and educated Englishman of
his times, it would have been considered highly eccentric to wear a tweed great
coat and a deerstalker hat for every occasion.
It is interesting that several serious film and TV versions of the
stories of this character have in fact not worn the deerstalker and very few
people have noticed, but show a picture of a man in a deerstalker smoking a
pipe and most people will say it’s Sherlock Holmes.
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One of the orginal illustrations from the Strand magazine. Holmes is the one in the boater. |
However, I digress, the rest of the museum consisted of
shops a post office a school etc all the things you now expect to find in these
reproduction museum towns.
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It is a sign of getting old when you find things in a museum that you recall from your childhood. More than one of my relations still had a similar range, and one great aunt still cooked on hers. |
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Another blast from the past. One of my uncles ran the village smithy and there were several of these abandoned to the rear of his forge. As children my cousin and I played on and around them. I can confirm that it is quite a challenge to run across six or seven of these ungainly bits of metal without touching the ground and without also hurting yourself, but it was great fun. |
At Blist Hill there is also
a mine which shows the visitors what it may have been like to work in a cramped
space underground and as in all caves and mines opened for tourist, you are
plunged into the required total darkness for a while.
As another digression, I once made a slight faux pa in a
Welsh mine I was visiting with my first wife and our family amongst a crowd of
other tourists. We were on a guided tour of a
deep slate mine which had a canned commentary going as we all shuffled through the
tunnels in semi darkness, lit up with waxwork miners and stories about their
exploits at intervals. Towards the end
of the tour, we came to a huge cavern and after the compulsory total darkness
experience, the commentary pointed out that we were now hundreds of feet under
the ground with tons of rock above us and after a final light show displaying
miners in various positions of intense toil, the commentary finished by saying
that this huge excavation stood as a monument to the intrepid Welsh miners and
how it would stand forever as a reminder of their toil etc. followed by a burst
of uplifting music. As an aside to the
wife I whispered ‘well, until the next big earthquake hits this area.’ Just as
the music came to an end and in the ensuing silence my stage whisper filled the
cavern. My comment was met with an
audible reaction from the people around us and the suddenly nervous crowd hurried
to the exit a bit faster than usual, casting the occasional nervous glance up at
the roof.
Meanwhile back in the Blists Hill Museum, we watched the
demonstrations, went into the mine, talked to the Victorian staff, ate icecream
and generally had a good Victorian experience.
On day three, we returned home and the family carried on to
our house. Having survived the odd
prang or two in my youth and eventually understood what I was doing wrong,
nowadays when driving I do not go as fast as many other drivers do. So we got home a good few minutes after TG
and her parents had arrived. They had a
key to our house, since this is not an unexpected situation.